Installing rubber flooring is one of the most rewarding DIY projects you can tackle. Whether you're fitting out a home gym, upgrading your garage, or protecting a workshop floor, rubber flooring delivers durability, comfort and professional results—without needing specialist contractors.

This comprehensive guide walks you through everything from surface preparation to finishing touches, covering both rubber rolls and interlocking tiles. By the end, you'll have the confidence to install rubber flooring like a professional.

What You'll Need: Tools and Materials Checklist

Before starting any rubber flooring installation, gather these essential items:

Tools

  • Stanley knife or utility knife — with plenty of spare blades (rubber dulls blades quickly)
  • Straight edge or metal ruler — at least 1 metre long
  • Tape measure — 5m minimum
  • Chalk line — for marking reference lines
  • Notched trowel — if using adhesive (3mm notch recommended)
  • Rubber mallet — for seating interlocking tiles
  • Spirit level — for checking subfloor flatness
  • Knee pads — you'll thank yourself
  • Heavy roller — 35-50kg for bonding adhesive installations

Materials

  • Rubber flooring — rolls or tiles, measured with 10% extra for cuts and waste
  • Flooring adhesive — if not using interlocking or loose-lay
  • Double-sided tape — optional for perimeter securing
  • Cleaning supplies — broom, vacuum, damp mop
  • Primer — if required for your subfloor type

Step 1: Measuring Your Space Correctly

Accurate measurement prevents costly mistakes and ensures you order the right quantity of rubber flooring.

How to Measure

  1. Measure the length and width of your room at the widest points
  2. Multiply length × width for total square metres
  3. Add 10% for waste — essential for cuts, corners and mistakes
  4. Note any obstacles — pillars, doorways, fixed equipment

Example: A garage measuring 6m × 4m = 24m². Add 10% = 26.4m² needed.

Choosing Between Rolls and Tiles

Feature Rubber Rolls Interlocking Tiles
Best for Large open areas, commercial gyms DIY installs, home gyms, garages
Seams Fewer seams, cleaner look More seams but invisible joints
Installation Requires adhesive, more skill Click-together, no adhesive needed
Removability Difficult once glued Easy to lift and relocate
Cost Generally lower per m² Slightly higher but no adhesive cost

For most DIY installations, interlocking rubber tiles offer the best balance of ease and professional results.

Step 2: Preparing Your Subfloor

Proper subfloor preparation is the single most important factor in a successful rubber flooring installation. Skip this step and you'll regret it.

Subfloor Requirements

  • Clean — no dust, debris, oil, grease or loose material
  • Dry — moisture content below 75% RH (use a moisture meter)
  • Flat — within 3mm over any 2m span
  • Sound — no cracks, holes or crumbling areas

Preparation by Subfloor Type

Concrete Floors (Most Common)

  1. Sweep thoroughly and vacuum all dust
  2. Remove any paint, sealers or coatings — rubber adhesive won't bond properly over them
  3. Fill cracks and holes with self-levelling compound
  4. Degrease oily areas with sugar soap or degreaser (common in garages)
  5. Test moisture levels — if above 75% RH, apply a DPM (damp proof membrane)
  6. Allow new concrete to cure — minimum 28 days before installing rubber

Timber/Plywood Floors

  1. Ensure boards are securely fixed — no squeaks or movement
  2. Sand down any high spots or proud nail heads
  3. Fill gaps between boards with flexible filler
  4. For suspended floors, consider 6mm plywood overlay for a perfect surface

Existing Vinyl or Lino

You can install rubber over existing vinyl if it's well-bonded, clean and flat. However, for best results, remove old flooring down to the subfloor.

The 24-Hour Acclimatisation Rule

Critical step: Unroll your rubber flooring or unbox tiles and leave them in the installation room for at least 24 hours before fitting. This allows the material to acclimatise to the room temperature, preventing expansion or contraction after installation.

Step 3: Installing Interlocking Rubber Tiles

Interlocking rubber tiles are the easiest option for DIY installation. No adhesive, no special skills—just click together and go.

Installation Method

  1. Find your starting point — identify the most visible corner or the room's focal point
  2. Dry-lay a row — place tiles without connecting to check your layout and plan edge cuts
  3. Start in the corner — place your first tile with the interlocking edges facing into the room
  4. Connect tiles — align the interlocking edges and press firmly, or tap with a rubber mallet
  5. Work row by row — complete one row before starting the next
  6. Stagger joints — offset each row by half a tile width for stability (brick pattern)
  7. Cut edge tiles last — measure each edge piece individually as walls are rarely perfectly straight

Cutting Interlocking Tiles

Use a sharp Stanley knife and straight edge. Score the tile firmly 2-3 times, then snap along the line. For curved cuts around pipes, use a jigsaw with a fine blade.

Pro Tips for Tiles

  • Leave a 5mm expansion gap around the perimeter
  • For home gyms with heavy equipment, start from where the rack will sit and work outwards
  • If tiles won't click easily, check for debris in the joints

Step 4: Installing Rubber Flooring Rolls

Rubber rolls require more skill but deliver a seamless, commercial-quality finish. Most rolls come in 1m to 1.83m widths and lengths up to 15m.

Loose-Lay Installation (No Adhesive)

Suitable for smaller areas or where you may need to lift the flooring later:

  1. Unroll the rubber and position roughly in place
  2. Allow to relax for 24 hours before final fitting
  3. Trim edges to fit, leaving a 3mm gap at walls
  4. Secure with double-sided tape at doorways and edges only
  5. Use transition strips at doorways to prevent lifting

Full Adhesive Installation (Permanent)

For high-traffic areas, commercial gyms, and anywhere heavy equipment will be used:

  1. Roll out and roughly position your rubber, then roll half back on itself
  2. Apply adhesive to the exposed subfloor using a 3mm notched trowel
  3. Wait for tack — most adhesives need 15-30 minutes until touch-dry
  4. Roll the rubber onto the adhesive — work slowly from the centre outward
  5. Use a heavy roller (50kg) — roll the entire surface to ensure full contact
  6. Repeat for the other half
  7. Roll seams with extra pressure where two sheets meet

Joining Rubber Roll Seams

For invisible seams:

  • Butt edges tightly together — don't overlap
  • Use seam sealer or cold weld liquid on the joint
  • Roll the seam immediately
  • Wipe away any excess adhesive with a damp cloth

Step 5: Cutting Rubber Flooring Like a Pro

Cutting rubber requires patience and sharp blades. Here's how to get clean, professional cuts every time.

Essential Cutting Tips

  • Use a new blade — rubber destroys dull blades, change frequently
  • Cut from the back — for rolls, turn the rubber face-down to cut
  • Score first, cut second — multiple light passes beat one heavy cut
  • Use a straight edge clamped in place — never free-hand straight cuts
  • Measure twice, cut once — the old saying exists for a reason

Cutting Around Obstacles

For pipes, pillars and other obstacles:

  1. Make a cardboard template first
  2. Transfer the template to your rubber
  3. Cut slightly undersize — you can always trim more, but you can't add rubber back
  4. Use silicone sealant around pipes for a waterproof finish

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Professional installations are defined by the details:

Edge Trims and Transitions

  • Ramp edges — essential for garages where vehicles may drive onto the rubber
  • Threshold strips — create clean transitions at doorways
  • Skirting trim — covers expansion gaps at walls

First Clean

  1. Remove all offcuts and debris
  2. Vacuum the entire floor
  3. Damp mop with warm water and a pH-neutral cleaner
  4. Allow to dry completely before use

Curing Time

For adhesive installations:

  • Light foot traffic: 24 hours
  • Normal use: 48 hours
  • Heavy equipment placement: 72 hours minimum

Common Installation Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

Mistake Why It Happens How to Fix
Bubbles under rubber Poor rolling, trapped air Roll thoroughly with 50kg roller, work from centre outward
Edges lifting Insufficient adhesive at edges Apply extra adhesive to perimeter, use double-sided tape as backup
Visible seams Poor seam alignment Butt edges tightly, use seam sealer, roll immediately
Tiles popping apart No expansion gap Leave 5mm gap at all walls
Adhesive showing through seams Too much adhesive Use notched trowel, wipe excess immediately

Installation Time Estimates

Plan your time realistically:

Room Size Interlocking Tiles Rubber Rolls (Adhesive)
Small (under 10m²) 1-2 hours 2-3 hours
Medium (10-25m²) 2-4 hours 4-6 hours
Large (25-50m²) 4-6 hours Full day
Commercial (50m²+) 1-2 days 2-3 days

Note: Times assume prep work is already complete. Add 2-4 hours for subfloor preparation.

Maintaining Your Rubber Floor After Installation

Proper maintenance ensures your rubber flooring lasts for decades:

  • Daily: Sweep or vacuum to remove grit that can scratch the surface
  • Weekly: Damp mop with pH-neutral cleaner
  • Monthly: Deep clean with rubber floor cleaner
  • Avoid: Bleach, solvent-based cleaners, abrasive pads
  • Under heavy equipment: Use rubber equipment mats to distribute weight

For detailed care instructions, see our guide: How to Clean and Maintain Rubber Matting.

Ready to Start Your Project?

Now you have everything you need to install rubber flooring like a professional. Whether you're creating a home gym, upgrading a garage workshop, or fitting out a commercial fitness facility, the right rubber flooring will transform your space.

Browse our complete range:

Need help choosing the right product? Contact our team — we're always happy to help with your project.

All orders over £100 include free UK delivery.

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